Theatre Review - Poe

This year marks the 200th anniversary of Edgar Allen Poe's birth, and what a better way to pave the way for Halloween then to dedicate a play to his best works. The Madrid Players are an English language amateur theatrical group based in Madrid, and will be paying tribute to this master of the Gothic and the Macabre in the small theatre the Teatro Liberarte.

The theatre is located in the back streets just behind Bravo Murillo close to Valdeacederas/Plaza Castilla. Walking there feels like going into the middle of no where as this part of Madrid is quiet and residential, with not much life in its streets. Suddenly, upon turning into the street Francisca Conde, suddenly there is an overflow of people coming out of the theatre.

The theatre itself is charming. It is very small, the lobby is covered but the garage door hoisted up makes it exposed to the street. There is a small bar, and a small ticket office. The lobby is decorated with quirky antiques, paintings and antiques, giving it a Gothic feel to the place. Even the bathroom is decorated as if they had called in Tim Burton as the internal designer. The theatre performance hall itself is hidden behind a door covered by a heavy velvet curtain. It is a nice size, not too small or big, comfy velvet lined seats and also consistent with the theatrical Gothic decoration with its grand chandelier and it's own Raven perched on one of the shelves. I caught myself wondering many times if the theatre had been decorated for the show especially, but the details were so meticulous, that is seemed unrealistic to assume such a tiny theatre would put an effort into the decoration for one show.



The show opened with the room blackening out and having Lou Reed blasted into the room, however it was unfortunate that the sound system left a lot to be desired, however this was a small theatre and an amateur production so I tried to lower my expectations. The mood became eerier as the players entered and creating an asylum on stage. This first act was creatively done. The gruesome characters of insane asylum recited their individual stories from the poetry and tales of Edgar Allen Poe, including The Tell-Tale Heart and Berenice. This was a very effective way to tell the short stories and poetry of Poe. It was eerie, sinister and atmospheric, an effective way of using Poe's work. The acting was very good and I forgot this was an amateur production.

The part of the second act which stood out was when there were two tramps telling the two stories simultaneously of The Black Cat and Never Bet the Devil Your Head. Again some very effective staging to use Poe's work.

After the interval the show continued with a recital of Poe's A Predicament. You see a headless woman to one side and the head sitting on a table narrating the story, one of Poe's short story which was about a woman who loses her head after putting it through the aperture of a giant clock in a church tower. Very funny and gruesome and well done. This was then followed by The Fall of the House of Usher which was the highlight of the whole production. The actor playing Roderick Usher was superb and perfect for the role. The scene was done traditionally and gave a real creepy atmosphere to the production. The play was then concluded with a recital of The Raven one of Poe's most famous works. All in all a wonderfully delightful play full of atmosphere, music and even humour. I was very impressed both by the Madrid Players and the Teatro Liberarte. I shall definitely be going to both again in the future that is certain.

Poe is running in the Teatro Liberarte, C/Francisca Conde 7, Metro:Valdecederas (L1), Ventilla (L9).
Dates: 22nd, 23rd, 24th, 25th October, 21:00 Weekdays and Saturday, 20:00 Sundays.
Price: 12euros on the door or 8euros if you book in advance via http://www.atrapalo.com.

Una Noche Andalúz en Madrid

Flamenco is an art-form traditionally associated with the gypsies of Andalucia. To find good Flamenco in Spain one would look to the back streets of the Barrío de Santa Crúz in Sevilla or the caves of Granada. However fortunately, Madrid being both the geographical and cultural centre of Spain, one can find every tradition and Spanish art-form from different regions here, the art of Flamenco no exception.

Flamenco can be found in "tablaos", classy nightclubs where one can reserve a table, enjoy drinks and tapas and watch a show of Flamenco. At the end of Plaza España, is the charming little Flamenco nightclub calle "Las Tablas". This classy place does live Flamenco shows every night, from music to dance. Las Tablas is a small venue with a limited number of tables giving the place an intimate atmosphere. With everything directed perfectly towards the stage makes for comfortable viewing of any show there. The experience is intense, intimate and cosy. It allows the audience to really feel the passion and the sensuality of flamenco. Las Tablas also offers a good wine selection, along with popular bar drinks and has an excellent tapas menu, giving you the opportunity to feel Spain with all the senses.

For more information on the program and details of Las Tablas go to www.lastablasmadrid.com

Opera - Lulu by Alban Berg

Lulu kicks off the Teatro Real's season which looks at the theme of female protagonists. Composed in 1935 by Alban Berg, Lulu was an unfinished opera, as the composer died before he had the chance to finish it. The first two acts were all that remained of the score, and was premiered in 1937 unfinished in Zurich. Following Berg's death, the vocal score completing Act III was written by Erwin Stein, with the orchestration by Arnold Schoenberg at the request of Berg's widow. The completed opera was finally premiered in Paris in 1979.

Based on the plays “Pandora's Box” (as is the famous silent film of the same name starring Louise Brookes) and “Earth Spirit”, Lulu is the tale of a fallen woman who becomes a victim of her circumstances due to the projection and desires of the men who surround her life. Tragedy befalls her as her first two husbands die, the first of a heart attack and the second of suicide – both linked to Lulu's countless admirers and infidelity. Her third husband tries to make Lulu kill herself with a revolver but she shoots him instead and is sent to prison. Lulu manages to escape from prison by her admirers and escapes across the border to France. As a fugitive she is blackmailed in Paris for 20,000 marks or she will be denounced or sent to a Cairo brothel. She flees Paris to end up in London as a prostitute and falls into the hands of Jack the Ripper and is brutally murdered.

Lulu, even as a story is very intense and uncomfortable. It is a story which follows a downward spiral of continuous tragedy. This accompanied by the twelve-tone score of Alban Berg results in an opera which draws on the emotions with such intensity that one watching and listening to this piece can feel every single muscle tense up in the body. This opera is exhausting - the music is exhausting and the story is uncomfortable. This production in the Teatro Real uses a minimalist setting which puts an extra edge to the discomfort this opera makes you feel. It is not an opera for the feint hearted. The night I went to see it the opera house became half empty by the end of the second act, and a significant amount of people had gone by the first. My reaction and that of my friend's after the first act was “we need a drink”. We felt nervously exhausted and tensed up from the drama and music of the first act. However the story was so compelling that we stayed for the full opera.

The cast was excellent. The Soprano who played Lulu and the Mezzo-Soprano as the Countess Geschwitz were both excellent. Nice voices and strong. I can't imagine how difficult this opera must be to perform, with the difficult and unusual modern twelve-tone score and all the drama and acting required for the roles. Considering these factors the cast made it seem effortless, their voices cut through the orchestra clearly, they maintained a good amount of energy both in singing and in acting. Musically and dramatically the show was outstanding.

The production is very good. However this is not an opera one can enjoy easily like a Mozart or Rossini piece. This one takes all the emotions and shoves it in a blender, leaving you an emotionally exhausted wreck. As a piece of art it is fantastic and avant-garde and does what it intends to do – bring the emotions, the pain, the tragedy to the viewer. Worth a one time viewing, but this is not light entertainment.

Dates:14,16 of October
Location: Teatro Real, Plaza Oriente
Transport:Metro line 5,line 2, R (Opera) or line 1, line 3(Sol)
Prices:Without discount (16€-151€) ages 26 or under at last minute tickets get 90% off!

International Festival of Gay and Lesbian Cine

Just a heads up for those interested in the genre.

http://www.lesgaicinemad.com/

Exhibition: ¡1914! Avant-Garde and the Great War (Part 1)

In Madrid the big temporary exhibition going on at the moment is ¡1914! Avant-Garde and the Great War exhibit held in two parts in the Thyssen-Bornemisza gallery and the Fundación Caja Madrid. Yesterday I decided to check out the part of the exhibit held in the Fundación Caja Madrid. The main advantage for doing this exhibit first in this centre was because it was free so my friends and I could see if it was something which interested us.




The Fundación Caja Madrid is located near Sol and it a very nicely laid out gallery. Lots of open spaces and very elegant. It consists of a grand hall which is on two levels, and some back rooms.

This part of the exhibition deals with the themes:

-Apocalypse of our time
-Artist and Soldier
-Cubism in the Trenches
-The Stigma of Damnation
-C'est la Guerre!



It is a rather intense exhibition and can make one rather uncomfortable. Which I suppose means it is indeed good art because its initial aim is to shock and make a strong statement. With dramatic and impressionable art from George Grosz, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and Wilhelm Lembruck this is an exhibit worth going to. However it is something that will un-nerve you and I know in my case it was not an exhibition I felt comfortable lingering on. I very much enjoyed seeing the works of George Grosz who this exhibition has made me realise is probably an artist that could go up there with my favourites. His Metropolis is one of the key stars of the exhibit along with Kirchner's Artillerymen. Thought provoking, powerful and impressionable. It is an exhibit which really captured the atmosphere of horror and intensity of the first World War.



Dates: 07/10/08-11/01/09
Location: Fundación Caja Madrid; Plaza San Martín 1
Transport: Metro: line 1,2,3,(Sol), line 2,5(Opera) line 3,5(Callao),
Buses: 1,2,3,5,15,25,29,44,50,51,53,146,148 and 150
Hours: Tue-Sun (10am-8pm), closed Mon.
Price: Free

Opera: Un Ballo in Maschera - Guiseppe Verdi

Before I launch into a review on this opera I want to point out something very useful to those aged 26 and under. The Teatro Real Opera house has a special offer for that age group regarding last minute tickets. From 6.30pm (or 4.30pm on Sundays) on the evening of the show they start to sell last minute tickets at 90% discount!! So you can get the best seats in the house at a mere 15€! All you need to do is bring ID with you and it is a good idea to check how many tickets are still available on the webpage and get there around 5.30-6 to queue.



I went into Un Ballo in Maschera completely ignorant about this opera except for the fact it was by Verdi. It is the first opera of the season and I am going to try to motivate myself to go to all or nearly of the operas on in the Teatro Real this season, especially as I am fortunate enough to be applicable for the last minute discount.

The story is standard opera - love triangles, plotting, death, passionate declarations of love etc. All very Verdi. It is set in Boston (I believe originally the setting was 18th Century but the production was done in the 19th century).

The opera opens with a very simple set, almost minimalistic with just lush fabric and paintings as backdrop amidst a fancy chorus of men in period dress. The music is full, intense and wonderfully sung. It immediately throws you into the opera which has a style bordering on Opera Comique style. The tenor playing Count Riccardo is singing amazingly well from the start, bold, clear and full of emotion. The baritone cast as Renato is a little bit quiet and overshadowed by the tenor accompanying him on stage but he really comes into full force as the opera continues and significantly improves.

The next scene is designed almost modernist style with an industrial style fence and wiring that looks almost like a modern, urban scene yet filled with people in period clothing. This is the den of the witch Ulrica, whom the Count goes to see in disguise. He sees his beloved Amelia - wife to his best friend and secretary Renato, declare her love for him to the witch here. The scene is accompanied with other predictions of the count's death and the good fortune of other men. This scene is very animated and goes through a roller-coaster of emotions from happiness to melancholie to high tension. The mezzo -soprano who plays the witch steals the scene most definitely here and has a great stage presence.

We pause for 20 minutes and resume with an act which is almost as long as the interval, but seeing the spectacularly constructed set of a ruined fort filled with rubble and almost realistic I can see why the need for an interval was required. This scene pulls together the rest of the opera. The lovers meet in secret and declare their love in a passionate and beautiful duet, the plot to kill the count thickens, and Renato discovers his wife's infidelity to the count and turns on him. This scene is executed with tension as well as some comic relief from the chorus with their lyrical laughing.

The final act opens with a very simple set of a study where the plot to kill the count is being planned. Renato and his conspirators discuss the plan for the murder which is over heard by Amelia, and she is forced to chose the name from the urn as to who will kill him. This scene out of the others comes across as the most bland, as it does not have the air of dramaticsim that the others have, but it builds up to a feeling of strong tension and release in an instant.

The act continues with a beautiful aria from the tenor in a hall of mirrors which reflects the whole opera house back at you. This was executed flawlessly by the tenor that even got a huge rise out of the audience when he finished.

The mirror tilts to reveal the lower galleries and gives you the illusion that you are in a manor house where the ball is taken place. The stage is filled with the chorus dressed in fine gowns and masks. It is a visual and aural feast on the viewer as the reflection to the lower gallery to dancers and musicians is distracting from the rest of the acts on the stage and you don't know where to look! The opera reaches its intense climax which is the death of the count. Verdi certainly has a very good way of expressing drama and tension in his music and he certainly manages this in this final scene. Although the count trying to rise as if he was OK made me think of Violetta's death scene in La Traviata a bit as well as Monty Python's "I'm getting better!" but I think this is a personal amusement to me.

Un ballo in Maschera was definitely a visually stunning and entertaining opera to watch. The singers were good, and some were exceptional. Definitely very entertaining and worth going to see if you can. However it was not the most memorable opera production I have seen but this may have to do with my personal musical preferences and having been spoilt by seeing Les Arts Florissants production of L'Orfeo the last time I went to the opera. Un Ballo in Maschera is not an opera where you will go away humming the aria to yourself, and for the opera virgin it is not the one I would recommend first. But saying that it is a good show and if you have a love for Verdi or Opera Comique style opera, or general dramaticism then do go along and check it out.

Dates:9,10,12,13,15,16,18,19 of October
Location: Teatro Real, Plaza Oriente
Transport:Metro line 5,line 2, R (Opera) or line 1, line 3(Sol)
Prices:Without discount (16€-151€) ages 26 or under at last minute tickets get 90% off!

Exhibition: Etruscan Princes - Between East and West

Not much is known about the mysterious civilisation of the Etruscans. A civilisation which existed in Italy in pre-Roman times, contemporary with the flourishing Grecian civilisation, yet despite the close proximity to the other Mediterranean cultures the Etruscans were very distinct. The art and style of these people borrowed styles and influences from their neighbours, yet it is this very fusion which makes the art of the Etruscans very unique. An eclectic blend of Archaic Greek which can be seen in the faces of some of the statues or the geometric designs on some of the pots, as well as influences from the Phoenitians and even Persian. Most of the Etruscan artefacts were recovered are from tombs, however the unusual beliefs of the Etruscans regarding death meant that many objects reflecting daily life and comfort were buried along side their owner adding as a window to their daily lives.



In the CaixaForum in Madrid, just along the Paseo del Prado is an exquisite exhibition solely dedicated to the Etruscan civilisation. A rare collection of over 170 Etruscan artefacts from some of the best museums in the world (The Louvre, The archaeological museums in Florence, the Vatican and Rome), detailing different aspects of Etruscan life from life to death to religion to daily life. This exhibition I found to be pretty intense and a minimum of two hours was required to do the whole thing - and I am not one of those people who studies one object for half an hour at a time!



Incredible gold jewellery with such detail you become completely seduced by it! Tiny animals done in such detail and unique style it completely charms you! Fascinating sculptures which have an almost modern avant-garde feel to them as well as a purely archaic feel. The exhibition is very well laid out with a nice and interesting overview of the life in this mysterious civilisation.

A definite must see for anyone who has an interest in the Etruscan civilisation or a passion for Archaeology. It is worth to invest a few hours to get the most out of this exhibition but it is definitely something I felt like I came away like I learned a lot about this interesting and mysterious pre-Roman civilisation. Also from an artistic point of view it is also a very curious experience to see parallels between other cultures even some things which to our society would not look out of place.





Dates: 2/10/08-18/01/09
Location: CaixaForum, Paseo del Prado 36
Transport: Metro - line 1(Atocha), bus 10,14,27,34,45
Hours: Monday - Sunday (9am-8pm)
Price: Free

Welcome to Bohemian Madrid

Welcome to the new blog Bohemian Madrid. A new project I am starting up with the aim to highlight activities of culture in Madrid as well as things of hedonism such as interesting bars, clubs, restaurants and unusual experiences to be had in this thriving city! I am hoping to turn this blog into a community where people can post articles and help keep this blog active instead of having one person to do all the work.

Bohemian Madrid sprung out of my previous blog on here (jensmadrid.blogspot.com) where the previous articles on here come from. I want to expand it into something more and maybe make this blog more like an online magazine type of thing for both the Madrid locals and tourists, and anyone who is interested.

To summarise the aim of the articles I would like to have on this site are:

-Reviews of exhibitions, concerts (classical, alternative, jazz etc), operas, theatre
-Highlight up and coming events in the month
-Reviews and anecdotes from interesting bars, unusual clubs
-Articles on alternative lifestyles in Madrid
-Interviews with people of interest
-Show casing art, poetry and literature of Madrid artists
-Articles on places of interest or anecdotes of Madrid experiences

Madrid is a wonderful city bursting with life and art! A European city which is often overlooked in shadow of more famous cities such as Paris, London, Barcelona etc but has just as much to offer.

If you are interested in participating in this project please email us at bohemianmadrid@gmail.com

Corsets and Absinthe

It had been a while since I went been Goth clubbing. Despite the fact I think sometimes Goths should smile more often and be less serious about life, I love a lot of things about the Goth culture. I adore the music, the literature and the clothes. I am a proud owner of four stunning corsets. Unfortunately seeing as it is 2008 and not 1908 wearing a corset on a daily basis is not only bloody uncomfortable but will get you strange looks from people, especially in my job.

However one of my favourite things about Goth clubs is that I look perfectly normal wearing a corset there. Another thing I love is the music and also there are some very amusing and interesting characters you would only meet in the Goth club (like the guy alone at the bar wearing listening to his iPod and looking like a professional in misery).

A few months ago, I managed to convince some friends to go clubbing with me there. I met some really cool people who also were in the search for clubbing buddies in the dark side of the Madrid club scene. After months of saying we were going make plans to go again (but travel, life and work got in the way) we decided por fin to go again.

A main question on anyone's lips on a Madrid night out is "Which bar to start in?". Considering this was not going to be the average night out in Malasaña or in Sol we had to think of an appropriate bar to start feeling our inner Goth. There are some good places around and about but they were either to far or we didn't know them. Drinking red wine in my bedroom while listening to Sisters of Mercy or VNV nation seemed a bit cliché and less fun to me and it is what I always end up doing. However my friend introduced me to the wonderful, charmingly bohemian Café Manuela in the district of Malasaña and conveniently close to the club.



It is a fancy looking place, but it does not feel expensive nor pretentious. It is decorated as if it were a bar from 19th Century Montmartre. What was even better was that they served absinthe - three different types of absinthe. Sounds cliché too but I personally don't care - I love Absinthe!



However a lot of places when you ask for absinthe have no idea what to do with it and give you "chupitos" or if they know what to do with it, there still isn't very much of it. My friends sensibly elected the 50% one, I on the other hand went for the 70% because I usually drink that (a tiny bit watered down a LOT).

The bartender took out three large tumblers full of ice and filled them to the brim with absinthe, the colours turning milky as the absinthe interacted with the ice. I stood there mesmerised and in shock was the bar tender filled my glass with a dark green and very flammable drink (I know that form experience when I introduced my hand to some absinthe and a lighter). We were given a glass of water to accompany it too, and along with some sugar. We sat back down and started to drink. We three looked rather out of place all gothed up (well we suited the place more - I guess the others were looking out of place really) as we sipped on milky concoctions of different shades of green. The absinthe was very good, but very strong. After making my way down on half of the glass I already felt I would have trouble walking down the stairs to the bathroom. On finishing the tumbler I swore to myself not to drink any more alcohol that night or I would simply die!

We proceeded towards Gran Via to the Gothic club Dark Hole. This is the only goth club in Madrid I have been to, and I must say it's pretty good! I personally really liked the music which was a combination of 80's batcave and synthpop and then moving on towards EBM as the night reaches it's peak. Nearly everyone is dressed in black in there but there are still a couple of people in t-shirt and jeans. I had a fabulous time dancing most of the night on the stage with enough absinthe in my blood to erase my inhibitions and enough redbull to keep me dancing for hours like a monkey on speed. A club recommended for anyone in to 80s music, alternative dance music, into the goth culture or for a night out clubbing with a difference. I love this club and it's my autumn's resolution to go there more often following café Manuela and my tumbler of Absinthe - but I will elect the 50% one next time.

Ciné Dore - Bringing the old school cinematic magic back

A month or two ago, a friend of mine invites me out to see an Ingmar Bergman film. I am always up for doing things providing time, money and energy permits so I thought why not. We met up at the metro station Anton Martin in "El Barrio de las Letras" meaning the Neighbourhood of literature which I think is such a charming name! It's just off Latina and Lavapies in the heart of old Madrid.



The cinema is a delight! It's an old restored cinema from the early part of the 20th century. With beautiful Deco style both inside and outside. Cine Doré specialises in showing films from the Spanish ministry of Culture's archive. They have special themes each month and show about 3 films per day. It is incredibly cheap to get into with tickets only costing 2.50€ per piece with student discounts available and also the option of getting an abono for 20€ for 10 shows!


The actual cinema hall itself is a delight! With balconies, gilded columns, murals and a wonderful stage with a heavy theatrical curtain, you think you are there to see a play rather than going to the movies.

You don't need to be a film lover to appreciate the charm of Cine Doré, they have a wonderful café there which is free to enter and is really stylish and delightful! It's one of the few bars in Madrid that is quiet and non-smoking and is ideal to go and work on your latest novel, read a book, study or just hang out for a nice conversation with friends. Whether your poison of choice is wine, beer, coffee or something heavier they have good quality and cheap drinks there. I highly recommend their coffee by the way!

For more details on the film program and opening hours check out the website (its not fancy and in Spanish but it has all the up to date information there) http://www.mcu.es/cine/MC/FE/CineDore/index.html